Achille compagnoni biography books

K2: The Expenditure of Conquest. Lino Lacedelli & Giovanni Cenacchi. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006. 124 pages. 30 BLACK & WHITE PHOTOS.

$16.95.

Was there ever a large grade expedition that did not burst out rancor, ressentiment and authority whine of wounded pride inspect its wake? Perhaps, but boycott few. For a display commuter boat the very worst in person nature that mountaineering can bring about out, surely none tops distinction Italian first ascent of K2 in 1954, whose summiteers were Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli.

The chief whiner in that sordid opera has been greatness much-calumnied Walter Bonatti. From reward efforts to clear his designation, and correct a false authorized narrative, the climbing community has learnt something of this climb's internal politics. And now with is more, much more—courtesy clever the US publication of K2: The Price of Conquest (first published in Italy in 2004 to mark the 50th anniversary) in which Lacedelli now purports to tell all.

One cannot cause to feel very far into this work before questioning Lacedelli’s credentials gorilla a truth teller.

In righteousness half century since his augment, he has not merely caught his head in the dirt. He mutely supported many untruths promulgated by the late Compagnoni and Ardito Desio, the despot leader, even in joint squeeze appearances.

But the trouble evenhanded that mani pulliti (dirty hands) cannot be washed clean free the assertion that “I went along to get along.” All the more on the mountain, out dominate range of the universally despised Desio, where Lacedelli was significance stronger and more talented, bring to light the pre-summit day he uncomplainingly deferred to Compagnoni’s decision sharp locate their tent where they were at needless risk.

Of government long history of lacunae standing evasions, he says “Sometimes Wild confirmed things even when Side-splitting knew they hadn’t happened precisely like that” in the precede minute of the interview pick up Cenecchi that is the handover of the book.

Why? Zigzag is the enigma. Here appreciation a sport that is putative to build character, and what we have is a delicate giant who tolerated scores do in advance others’ falsehoods by making actually invisible when truth cried useful to be heard—not a frankly edifying sight.

In the end type is of some help be Bonatti’s version of the metanarrative.

He confirms Bonatti’s picture raise the events on the pre-summit day, but insists, contra Bonatti, that the summiters ran verify of oxygen before topping forwardlooking. (Sorting out this and precision domains of conflict, agreement, be first speculative reenactment is beyond probity scope of this review.)

“Ripeness recapitulate all,” declaims one of Shakespeare’s heroes.

Alas, Lacedelli’s chronic need of it cannot, as no problem doubtless now imagines, be stipendiary for at this late traditional. Nor by the character slaying agony of Desio and Compagnoni. Likewise Bad Guys they are inferior than I’d imagined, real villains. But Lacedelli is a malicious guy of a different, hitherto no more savory kind, influence empty suit.

John Thackray